Keeping your Spin® bike looking and riding like new is easier than you might think, and with this video and the instructions below, anyone can do it. No special skill is required. That’s because we design our bikes with performance and longevity in mind. We know those Sprints, Jumps and Standing Climbs are hard enough….the least we can do is make the bike maintenance part easy.

Safety First

Be sure to keep clear of any moving parts on the bike, especially the chain. Refer to your owner’s manual for full safety and warranty information.

Tools You Will Need

• SpinTech® Polish to clean, polish and protect all surfaces
• Lubricant for the pop-pins (Super Lube or similar multi-purpose synthetic lubricant)
• Metric wrench for tightening pedals
• Metric socket wrench for tightening crank arms
• Multi-purpose oil for leather brake pads (3-In-One oil or similar) 

And for bikes with chains, you will also need:

• Phillips screwdriver
• Metric box wrench
• Allen wrench

After Every Ride: Three Simple Steps to Prevent Corrosion

Some of us glisten, some of us sweat like champions and find puddles on the ground after an exhilarating ride. That sweat is like your visible proof and immediate gratification that you worked hard, and we celebrate that! But don’t let that sweat damage your bike. Do these three simple things after every ride to prevent corrosion:

1) Release the resistance: Turn the resistance knob all the way to the left so that the brake pad lifts off the flywheel. This is so that you don’t leave moisture trapped in that spot.

2) Raise seat and handlebar posts: Lift them to their highest position, as if you were setting up the bike for Shaquille O’Neal. Again, this is so moisture can evaporate.

3) Wipe down the bike: Just use an absorbent towel and wipe down the whole bike…not just the seat and handlebars. Again, if you’re really good at sweating, you might be surprised where you’ve left your mark on the bike!

Periodic Maintenance

There are a few preventative maintenance steps that you’ll need to do to keep your bike in top operating condition for years (and miles) to come.

Cleaning your bike: “Hey Alexa, clean my Spin® bike.” Wouldn’t that be nice. But not to worry…it’s easy. You just want to keep that beauty looking shiny and new. That polished finish is also what helps prevent corrosion, so it’s super important that you use non-abrasive cleaning products that are not oil-based. You can use SpinTech® Polish or another Teflon® based product.

Seat and handlebar posts: If you notice that the seat and handlebars are feeling kinda stuck and difficult to move, they probably need to be cleaned and lubed. Just lift them all the way out, spray some SpinTech® Polish on a soft cloth and rub onto the posts.

Pop-Pins: The pop-pins on the seat and handlebar posts will also need some lube every 3 months or so. Turn the pop-pin all the way out, wipe off the old grease, and then just dot a small amount of lubricant onto the threads.

Pedals: You’ll need to tighten your pedals regularly. If you’re riding several days a week or getting after it with very heavy resistance, do this every 8 weeks.

1. Get the pedals in a stationary position by turning the resistance knob all the way to the right.

2. Use a metric wrench and place it on the flat spot where the pedal attaches to the crank arm.

3. Turn the wrench toward the front of the bike. It’s the ol’ righty tighty rule, but things get a little turned around when you’re standing on different sides of the bike. So just remember: Turn the wrench toward the front of the bike.

Crank Arms: Whenever you tighten the pedals, tighten the crank arms as well. There’s a bolt cap that you can remove with your fingernail or a flathead screwdriver. Just be careful not to scratch the bike finish if you use a screwdriver. Once the bolt cap is removed, tighten the bolt with a metric socket wrench and turn clockwise.

Leather brake pad: If your bike has a leather brake pad (not felt), it needs to be lubricated occasionally. Not sure which type you have? The L, A, and P series bikes as well as the Elite, Blade and Blade Ion all have leather brake pads.

When to lube? If you hear an unusual noise when you turn the pedals, that’s a sign that lubrication might be needed, and this is one of the easiest maintenance steps you can do. There’s no need to disassemble anything, and you definitely do NOT want to reach in to where the brake pad is.

1. Turn the resistance knob until the brake pad is just touching the flywheel.

2. Dot a small amount of multi-purpose oil (like 3-IN-ONE silicone oil) on the edge of the flywheel, and rotate the flywheel so that the brake pad absorbs the oil. Genius!

3. Use a paper towel to wipe off the excess oil on the flywheel. 

Chain Adjustment

If your Spin® bike features the Fusion Drive® belt system, there’s no chain to maintain. So skip this section if you see the red FUSION DRIVE® logo on your bike. If you do have a bike with a chain, follow the instructions below.

When your bike is brand-new, the chain tension is just right. Over time, it can get loose, which means you’ll feel extra “slack” when you’re pedaling. You can check this even off the bike. Just put your hand on a pedal and jiggle it up and down. If you feel a lot of slack, the chain needs to be adjusted. After the first few adjustments, the chain will start to “settle in” and you won’t need to do it very often going forward.

Some bikes have removable access panels, specifically for this maintenance step. Other bikes have a chain guard that you’ll need to remove. See below.

For bikes with removable access panels:

The access panels are on either side of the flywheel. You just use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the screws and take the panels off.

1. Use a metric socket wrench to slightly loosen the axle nut on each side. Don’t take the nuts off; just loosen them.

2. Use a metric box wrench to evenly tighten the chain adjuster nut on each side in small, equal increments. Half a turn on the left, half a turn on the right, back to the left, etc.

3. Jiggle those pedals again, and when there’s just a small amount of slack, your chain is at the right amount of tension.

4. Retighten the axle nuts on each side, and recheck the tension one last time. Then you can reattach the access panels and tighten the screws until snug, but not overtight. 

For bikes with a chain guard:

Remove the screws from the back of the chain guard with a Phillips head screwdriver. Position the right-side pedal at 9 o’clock and turn the resistance knob to hold the pedals in place. Remove the remaining screw on the front of the chain guard and take the chain guard off.

SAFETY: The chain is now exposed, so be very careful to keep your hands and everything else away from the chain. Keep the resistance knob turned to the right so the pedals (and chain) will not move.

1. Use a metric socket wrench to slightly loosen the axle nut on each side. Don’t take the nuts off; just loosen them.

2. Loosen the locking nut on each side with a metric box wrench.

3. Use an Allen wrench to evenly tighten the chain adjuster nut on each side in small, equal increments. Half a turn on the left, half a turn on the right, back to the left, etc.

4. From the left side of the bike (not the chain side), jiggle those pedals again. When there’s just a small amount of slack, your chain is at the right amount of tension.

5. Tighten the locking nut on each side with a metric box wrench.

6. Tighten the axle nut on each side with a metric socket wrench.

7. Before reattaching the chain guard, you might want to lubricate the chain with a small amount of lube. Do this with the pedals stationary!

8. Reattach the chain guard and tighten the screws until snug, but not overtight. 

See this video for a demonstration of the steps outline above, and contact us with additional questions. We’re here to help, and we want to be sure you love your ride!